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Schnell Rules for Schnellboot, Hunters on the Shoreline, Pz.8 Coastal Wargame Rules

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I am embarking on WW2 coastal forces as a gaming "genre."  Since most battles are at night, air power plays a lesser role (this is the reason I have always preferred WW1/pre-dreadnoughts), there is an interesting mix of cat-and-mouse stealth and frantic, high speed, close-range combat.  I also like the fact coastal forces (in contrast to the bigger ships) saw almost constant action, in some varied and unusual locations (Black Sea, Baltic, Aegean saw some interesting battles).  There is a weird mix of high tech, and jury-rigged ships. Converted landing craft and barges with anti tank guns and heavily armed sailing yachts served alongside 40kt S-boats with Lurssen effect rudders, or super agile minesweepers with vertical propellors

The S-Boot; stealthier, faster, tougher and more sea-worthy than its rivals

High speed, flimsy boats, heavily armed with automatic cannon means combat should be short, sharp and bloody. I would like the rules I use to reflect this. The two main rules I found, Flaklighter and Action Stations, were meticulously researched and detailed.  In fact, they would be handy as reference material. However I reckon the average WW2 coastal action would be over well before I finished a single game turn, given the amount of minutinae and record-keeping. 

Under the premise that it is easier to complicate a simple rule set, rather than simplify a complex one, I went looking for a fast play ruleset upon which I could "add to" if needed.

The Best Rules are Free
Ironically, the rules that seem to best suit my needs are freely downloadable.  The first ones I came across that fit my "fast play" criteria were from thePanzer 8 series of "one page" wargames series, which have a fast play ruleset to fit almost every genre, including Pz.8 Coastal Wargame Rules.

Speed was recorded using a d6, making it easy to record speed changes.  30mm and smaller guns were grouped as a "fire factor" whilst 37mm and larger scored individual hits.  Hits were scored on 4+ rolls (modified for range and speed). Super simple. Damage is easy too - compare weapon attack + d6 to ship defence + d6 - the margin determines if ships are either Damaged, Wrecked or Sunk.  Heavy guns can be knocked out separately.  These rules were inspired and distilled from Schnell Rules for Schnellboot and Hunters on the Shoreline.  Pz.8 also has simple rules to allow submarines to be involved.

The Fairmile D is my favourite MTB for "looks" - and with its size, radar and impressive firepower it was arguably the pinnacle of allied MTB design

Next, to Hunters on the Shoreline.  (by the author of Flaklighter). It was also a pretty straightforward game. Ships moved 1cm per knot of speed, and it had more thorough visibility rules (a good thing, given the paramount importance of spotting in night actions). It used a similar firing system to Pz.8 (fire factor for small weapons, individual hits for bigger guns) albeit using different dice types (d8s, d12s, etc) but its damage system was much more involved - MTBs had "buoyancy points" (a.k.a. the dreaded hull boxes) of which were only 5-10 for a MTB but could be up to 100 for a destroyer.  In addition there were 7 hit locations.  I felt all the extra recording was not worth the cost, over the simplicity of Pz.8 - its damage system is comparable to that of the more complexcommercial rulesets.HotS also has rules for smoke and for using depth charges against surface targets.

The numerous Russian G-5 hydroplanes were only 14-16 tons (they had an easily corroded aluminium hull). In light conditions, the two 800 or 1000bhp aircraft engines push them along at 49 or 56 knots (and an incredible 63 knots when not fully loaded!)

Finally, the elusive "Schnell Rules for Schnellboot" by David Manley (also the author of Action Stations). After exploring many dead ends and broken links, I found them in the files of the narrow seas yahoo group. It shares movement similarities with Hunters of the Shoreline with the fastest MTBs topping out at around 30cm/move. 

The spotting rules, though still simple, are the best yet, with dummy markers to add uncertainty. Firing uses a d20, modified as usual by target size and speed. Weapons fire is grouped by "type" (i.e. HMG, 2pdr, 20mm, 30mm, etc) and is thus a bit more detailed and fiddly than the "fire factor" approach of Pz.8 and HotS.  


However the damage system is excellent - with Damaged, Heavily Damaged, Wrecked or Sunk (4 "levels" compared to Pz.8's 3). Speed, maneuver and weapons can also be knocked out.  It is a little too complex to simply use markers on the board (like Pz.8) but it adds extra 'grittiness' without bogging down. 

SRfSb also has rules for aircraft, starshells and flares, an alternate torpedo resolution method, depth charges. There is also the chance of random visibility or fires caused from gunfire hits illuminating the vessel. SRfSb also has the most comprehensive list of vessels and stats.

Whilst all the rules are solid fast-play options (with a special nod to Pz.8's 0-record keeping approach) I am opting for Schell Rules, due to its similarities with the excellent Bulldogs Away modern FAC rules, simple but meaningful damage, and easy compatibility with Action Stations' more complex rules.

PT Dockyard sells a wide range of coastal forces in 1/600, as well as publishing the Flaklighter rules

TL:DR
I find it interesting both SRfSb and HotS are by the authors of the more complex rulesets Action Stations and Flaklighter respectively. This is good, allowing me to "borrow" concepts from the more complicated rules with confidence, whilst enjoying the more playable, simpler rules.

I plan on borrowing weather rules, auditory detection, firing guns causing auto-illumination; gun crews "losing" their target due to "night blindness" caused by muzzle flash, searchlights, damage control, and especially mine warfare (as mine laying was an important part of coastal missions)

I am also aware of "Attack with Torpedoes" which is supposed to be a slick rules set; but as (AFAIK) it is available only from America (which has godawful postage costs - I don't fancy paying more for postage than for the rules themselves) I'm going to regretfully give them a miss.

Recommend?Well, sure, they're all free, so what are you waiting for? Ironically, I find all the fast play rulesets offer reasonable detail and are better "games" than their commercial big brothers, which are bloated and overcomplicated in comparison.  I would however recommend picking up either Flaklighter or Action Stations for their reference value and the ability to add in more complex rules if you choose.

There is plenty of useful material in the narrow seas yahoo group and I like the look of the campaign (also free) from the Coastal Command series.

WW2 Coastal Forces - 1/1200 vs 1/600

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I'm looking at my 1/1200 Hallmark minis (which I bought on a whim) and find myself in a quandary.

Do I add to my 1/1200 coastal collection and thus "lock in" to a scale? Or do I switch to 1/600 before it its too late.

The argument for 1/1200 - quite crisp, and as well detailed as 1/600 - but man, it's tiny. What's the point of detail if you can't see it without a magnifying glass?

1/600 are easier to handle, at more than double the price ($5.25 vs $2). Surprisingly, coastal freighters are quite close in cost - $9 in 1/600 vs $7 in 1/1200 for a 500-700 tonner.

This PT boat from PT-Dockyard costs around $5.25. It doesn't have more detail, but you can at least see the detail there is....
 
"Will you pay... the price of detail?"
However here's an argument against both - they are both overpriced!
 
For the same $2 for a microscopic 1/1200 S-boat you can get a much larger aeronef ship (also metal) with an accompanying flight stand (not pictured)... The "nef" has far more metal than a $7 freighter. 
 
My original rationale is price - however getting a decent 1/1200 collection then switching later would be even more costly.....
 



Back to Infinity

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I have a weird relationship with Infinity. I think it is an awesome game, with great models and innovative, elegant game design concepts, that has been wrecked by a ridiculous amount of special rules, skills, abilities, and weapons. 

It is a points-based competitive game where "lists" were secondary to player skill and tactics. "It's not your list - it's you," was the famous Infinity catchphrase.

However the game has succumbed to rules creep (aka "Malifaux syndrome") so victory can often go to he who remembers the most rules.  Base Infinity had 54 special skills, Human Sphere increased that to 76 and Paradiso upped the special rules count to 83.  In addition, there are currently 61 unique weapons, there are a dozen unique ammo types and there are over 30 different pieces of equipment. Personally, I think 200+ special exceptions to rules is a bit much for a RPG, let alone a competitive wargame.

The new Infinity cry should be "It's not your list - it's your memory." An iPad linked to the rules wiki is pretty much mandatory for play.

Anyway, for a while I have been determined to get back to the basics. So I dragged out two simple forces - a Ariadnan force (me) made up of 4 Kazak riflemen and a Scout sniper, against Yu Jing squad of 4 Celestial Guard riflemen and a sniper (wife).

Turn #1.  I deployed first and took the first turn. I advanced my scout sniper to the central buildings and my rifleman in pairs up the right side where cover was thickest.

My scout sniper was taken out from a rifleman firing from under the pipe.  I positioned him poorly (not in cover) but I was "surprised" by the long effective range of the humble combi rifle.

Turn #2.  My wife moved her sniper to my far left, but as it had no LoS I kinda forgot about it - with unpleasant consequences to me later...  then moved her forces forward.  My scout sniper forced an ARO but was promptly gunned down burst of fire from a rifleman. I forgot how long optimal ranges are, even for relatively short ranged rifles.  0-1.

Do you see the sniper in the top central building building? I didn't. My guy died.

Turn #3. I tried to seize initiative back with a raid down the right flank.  Sadly my rifleman crossed the LoS of the wife's sniper, artfully hidden in a window on the opposite side of the board.  It fired between the oil drums and my rifleman dropped instantly.  0-2.

A bit shaken, but undeterred I pushed on through the far right building. I hosed two of her rifleman with automatic gunfire; both took half a dozen shots each and passed every armour roll.  I took this as a sign the dice gods were against me.  

The Kazak in the top building scored 9 hits.... without one causing a wound. Naturally, in the next turn he took two hits and failed both his armour rolls. 

Turn #4.  With my scout sniper disposed of, the wife was able to move her forces up the middle.  Thankfully she missed an opportunity to "blindside" me with a rear shot - but no matter.  Firing from cover she delivered two shots to my rifleman, who was punished for his earlier failure to pass an armour roll by promptly failing his own. 0-3.

Then one of her troops poked around a building to take on my last two troops sheltering at the corner of a building. My lead Kazak took two rifle rounds to the chest and dropped.  0-4.

With my luck thus far, I wasn't expecting to win (or even survive) my last opposed roll. 
I didn't.

Turn #5. My last remaining rifleman (also my Lieutenant) failed his nerve test. Typical. As an upside, my very competitive wife (who is such a sore loser she refuses to play PC FPS games against me for more than 10 minutes) now thinks Infinity is "awesome" and she wants to play more.  There's a silver lining in every cloud, I guess.

Thoughts:  Weapon ranges are stunningly long - something I forgot to my expense early in the game.  Mistakes are punished harshly, and lethality is high - for me anyway (my wife freakishly passed 9 consecutive armour rolls).  Without any special rules (I ignored the scout's "Camouflage" and "Infiltration" - which could have made a difference early on) the game flowed quickly and lasted only 30 minutes, which included pauses to check on baby.  Infinity at it's most basic is an elegant ruleset, with resource management (Orders), free "reactions", lots of move and action choices and high lethality making for interesting and tense decisions every time you (or your opponent) picks up a miniature. 

Infinity miniatures are a mongrel to paint - they are so fine, fiddly and delicate and you always have their impossibly talented studio painter Angel Giraldez to keep you feeling hopelessly inadequate and unworthy of even basecoating them....   ...but I am inspired nonetheless - currently prepping some chaingun-wielding werewolves to spice up my Ariadnan force....

5150 Fighter Command - Space Fighter Miniatures Game Review

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At last - a space fighter game to challenge the venerable Silent Death.*

Anyway,since I interviewed Javier last year this is a game I have been waiting for.  This is 2HW's second attempt at the space genre.  5150 Star Navy was more a fast-playing campaign system with abstracted gameplay for mass battles, rather than the Full Thrust replacement many craved.  5150: Fighter Command promises gritty fights between flights of fighters, made by a fan of the old Wing Commander PC game series. 

Studio Bergstrom makes excellent fighters... that bear an uncanny resemblence to popular TV shows. 
Super cheap at only $1.25 each!

The Shiny
Well I plumped for a pdf and given most 2HW games are softcover B&W with a colour cover I presume my comments will fit the print version as well.

I am not a great fan of the 2HW editing and layout and I personally find reading the rulebooks a chore. This is not helped by the fact 5150:FC is quite "dense."   The pdf is large - weighing in at 67 pages of rules plus another 30 or so pages of appendices, ship info, quick play charts  etc. As usual for 2HW games there are lots of "reaction charts" which look a bit confusing but you usually only need a few of them.

There are plenty of ship charts for the homebrew 5150 universe and I appreciate the "Reaction Test" sheets which detail key reactions for fighters, capital ships on 3 handy pages.

Models
5150:FC will use any ships, and indeed the author uses the super cheap EM4 Silent Death plastics I have used in the past.  I can also recommend Studio Bergstrom for your not-Stars Wars and not-BSGneeds - the minis are always beautifully cast, and flash free. 

5150: Fighter Command draws influences from the old PC game: Wing Commander

Pilots and Crews
Fighters can be piloted by Stars (Starbuck, Luke Skywalker) or Grunts (the cannon fodder). This cinematic conceit well suits a fighter campaign.  You have complete control over the stars, but grunts will react depending on circumstances (and dice rolls).  Stars also have cinematic longevity (they cannot be killed by lower-rated pilots, get bonus dice and can "cheat death."

Pilots are rated REP 2 (civilians) to REP 6 (godlike heroes) with most being REP 3-5.  I've often wondered why 2HW never switched to d10 as this would allow them a wider range of ability types with a more gradual scaling.  Stars can get two "special attributes" and grunts get one. These include sci fi staples such as "maverick"  "born leader"  "exceptional pilot" and ..."drunk."

Fighters, Weapons and Stuff
Fighters are classed as light, medium or heavy. They have a solid selection of weapons that cover most sci fi series - lasers, mass drivers, plasma cannon, rail guns. There are missiles, mines, rockets and torpedoes, with sub-classes such as swarmers (think Macross) and leech missiles (shield missiles from PC games). A good mix of weapons, without going overboard. So far so good.

However there is NO points system.  The author suggests that points systems are inherently imbalanced and games depend more on player skill than otherwise. This may be true, but in a space game, the absence of a "ship creation" system is glaring, and it may alienate potential players.

Gameplay
Stars get to choose their actions and reactions, but grunts usually react to certain situations based on dice rolls made against their skill (REP).

At the start of the turn both players roll a d6.  The lowest scorer moves all ships and missiles, then the higher scorer moves.  The lower scorer than completes any actions, then the high scorer carries out actions.  Actions include firing, repairing, etc. 

However not all fighters will get to act. Only fighters who have a REP higher than the dice roll can act - which means better pilots will be able to act more often and rookie pilots will often miss out.
I.e. a "4" is rolled for a REP 3 flight of Vipers.  As their REP is lower than the roll, they are inactive and can only "react" to enemy actions.  A REP 4 or 5 flight would be able to act.  




Movement
Fighters can use afterburners which can yield up to double speed depending on rolls and pilot skill. Turning is like many space/fighter games - move half distance, make a turn; move the remaining distance, make a turn.  Ships can increase or decrease their speed based on their acceleration.  Pretty standard so far. 

However...  Active fighters can make special maneuvers instead of normal movement. Fighters within 5" (visual range) can perform "dogfight" maneuvers.  These will be triggered based on the facing and direction of the opposing fighter.  These can be triggered by reaction tests.  

This allows "NPC" fighters to be controlled by their reaction rolls but may mean combat positioning is dictated more by pilot "REP" ratings and dice rolls rather than the maneuverings of the players themselves.   

Gameplay
"PEFS" (Possible Enemy Forces) or "blips" are picked up on scanners from 20"; at visual range (5") can "see" enemy ships and is the range where fighter combat usually occurs.  

Once enemies are "In Sight" a test is rolled for all in visual range. The highest scorer acts first.  Stars can choose exactly how to react (fire, dogfight, use afterburners, change course, etc); grunts will fire if they can, and dogfight or change course if they cannot.  

Reaction Tests
These are heavily used in 2HW games and 5150:FC is no different.  There are lots of tests but the most common are the "Received Fire" (when a fighter has been shot) "Countermeasures" (against missiles) but can include ejecting, collision, landing, repair, and stuns.  

Ships that pass the tests may perform actions like snap fire, afterburning away, changing course or even retiring from the fight.  

Combat Resolution
The typical weird 2HW system where 2d6 are rolled and rolls of 7-9 score hits if certain criteria are fulfilled; and any 10+ hits regardless.  It's supposed to be simple but I find it more awkward than otherwise.

Any hits roll 1d6 against the weapon's damage or "impact" rating; if the d6 score is less damage occurs and a d6 is rolled for hit location.

Hit areas include engine, shield, hull, guns, comms, and cockpit. A 2nd hit to the same area destroys the fighter. This is similar to Hind Commander (and Check Your Six?) and means a few micro d6 can be used to track damage rather than recording zillions of hitpoints an elaborate ship data sheet.  

 Fighters can attempt to repair a damaged area each activation.  

Capital Ships. They're awesome. 

Capital Ships
5150: FC is mostly aimed at flights of fighters, but capital ships are needed to transport and supply them.  They are fairly simple - they have main guns and torpedoes and can transport fighters, bombers and assault dropships.  They are divided into light (destroyers, escorts) medium (cruisers) and heavy (battleships, carriers). They use the same rules except they accelerate and turn ponderously and have far more powerful shields.   Capital ships have their own series of reaction tests and their own damage table.  There are rules for ramming and boarding actions. Players can elect to be the "Star" captain of a capital ship (aka Captain Adama).

Terrain
This is important for a space game and 5150: FC supplies a "random terrain generator"  which can include minefields and drifting hulks along with the more common asteroid belts and dust clouds. 

Battlestar Galactica > Star Wars. There, I went and said it.  
 Campaigns
The core "rules" are 42 pages but there is (as expected) a solid campaign component.   The game is aimed squarely at scenarios and focusses strongly on campaigns.  There is no "points system" but the campaign system uses an "investment level" that, depending on the intel level, can cause significant mismatches.  Typical forces include a single flight of light, medium or heavy fighters, with or without an accompanying capital ship (depending on "investment level.")  Your squadron may have extra "assets" such bonus rockets or missiles depending on your investment level. 

You can have good or bad intel - you may find yourself significantly outgunned or missions may just "go wrong" - the mission you prepared for might not be the one you actually have to accomplish. 

"PEFs" or "blips" can be moved and resolved automatically depending on dice rolls and tables set out in the rules. This is very handy as it allows you to play solo or co operatively against "NPC" ships and fighters. 

Random events can occur (such as space pirates, rescuing escape pods, or encountering an enemy ace) and reinforcements can escalate battles on their own.

Missions include patrols, strike, boarding actions and defensive CAP and escortAfter battles pilots can be promoted or replaced, gain or lose fame and "REP" and track your success in the campaign overall.  There is some information on the homebrew 5150 "Game Universe" which, to be honest, I don't find very interesting or attractive. However they will suit as handy generic races if you are using less recognizable miniatures such as the ones from EM4.  

As usual, 2HW puts in a very strong campaign element and the solo/co operative gamer is well catered for here. 


 Talk of Wing Commander.... maybe PC space sims aren't dead yet. 
By the creator of Wing Commander - Chris Roberts. 
The trailer is actual in-game footage! More details here.
TL:DR
5150:Fighter Command caters for a different audience than Silent Death, eschewing a point system in favour of a strong campaign/narrative focus.  It has far more depth of gameplay than the rather sparse 5150: Star Navy and allows you to field fighters from your favourite movies.  

Some players may dislike the emphasis on pilot skill "REP" and automated "reactions" which can detract from the player's input - but remember you are only a single "Star" pilot (who CAN choose his reactions freely) mixing it up with less skilled "grunts."  

The strength is in its simple but deep campaign and mission setup -  individuals and squadrons can progress in a Mordhiem-style setup notable for its ease of use. I also like the simple damage system which is easily tracked and avoids the "dozens of hitboxes" trap.  Best of all, you can play it co-operatively or even solo. As space gaming is a bit more niche than your average "40K" or "Warmahordes" club, andfinding an opponent can be difficult -  this is a not-insigificant feature. 

Recommended: If the idea of guiding a fighter squadron through a series of missions appeals to you, then look no further.  5150: Fighter Command has to my knowledge no obvious rivals bar some Silent Deathhouse rules(Mongoose's Blue Shift remains vaporware)and it is by far the most playable space campaign system out there. And unlike Star Navy, it is tied to a pretty decent tactical game.  

*No, X-Wing doesn't count. Since (a) it is more an (expensive) CCG and (b) it reuses Wings of War's guessing game mechanics

Revell 1:50 Viking Longship

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Grabbed one of these off eBay for $25 and I must say it looks the goods.

I know 1:50/1:48 is "about" 28mm but since 28mm varies so much it was a bit of a gamble.

I'm not a fan of "modelling" but for the price the Revell longship is worth a look. The sails (not included in the shot) are hard white plastic, in a "billowing" shape.

GW's LOTR stuff is, ironically, pretty lifelike and one of the least "heroic" (i.e. ridiculously oversized) miniature lines - so I used it as my "frame of reference."

As you can see, the longship seems a little small - but not jarringly so.  The miniatures' base makes it appear proportionately larger.

If you look at the size of the Viking roundshields, however, the scale seems pretty spot-on.

The "rounded bottom" of the model ship means it is only really good for acting as a "beached" longship - but that is all I really intended it for anyway - as a scenario marker for a raid, as I cannot think of any Viking boarding actions I would need to re-enact.

I dislike multi-part models....  ...but after all this is a "model kit" designed for those strange masochists enthusiasts (who probably also enjoy meaningless frustration in activities like crosswords, Sudoku and puzzles) it is fairly restrained with a modest but not unreasonable amount of parts.  I'd say it looks like an "average" to "easy" kit - but I'll get back to you on that.

I also notice there is a HMS Beagle which might stand in well for a pirate ship, and a S-100 S-Boot which might be useful in WW2 scenarios. 

TL:DR  Not bad for $25 - seems to fit 28mm fine - I'll let you know how much I fill up my "swear jar" completing it.

The Curse of Multi Part Miniatures (Or, the decline of Infinity Minis)

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I notice I passed 100 followers and 100,000 views during my baby-enforced hobby holiday, but I'll forgo the usual posts in return for allowing myself to deviate from my usual format for a brief rant.

Yes, it is the curse on modern gaming - the proliferation of the multi-part miniature.

Begin #1 RANT:

Disclaimer: Now I'm not saying there isn't a place for multi-part miniatures.
Namely, in cheap sets like Wargames Factory, where they sell bulk sprues with 4-5 basic poses for mass armies and allow interchangable leg/torso sets to add some "variety." Or Warlord plastics where they use different heads to allow Confederate and Union troops to be built from the same box.  They are usually easily slapped together and usually have the minimum necessary to allow some variety.
The multi-part factor allows a range of models to be made with a limited number of sculpts, helping keep costs down and allow mild (and easy) tinkering by the gamer who wants more poses and features.   I nominate Perry miniatures as an example of "good practice"; separate torsos and legs make a two-part mini easy to assemble but allow a good range of sensible poses.

When plastic minis are sold cheaply in bulk, a limited level of multiple parts balances production cost with variety.
There's annoying....
Games Workshop has long annoyed me with their infamous three-point attachment (left shoulder, right shoulder, plus one hand needs to be attached to the gun). Sometimes this requires a clamp or an extra set of hands, and seldom comes out "just right."

..and there's going to far
However, Infinity has recently been enraging me with their multi-part "redundancies."   It's now a "fourpart attachment" sometimes - also they seem to be trying to ensure each arm, leg and head is individually attached.... it's like the minis were designed as a puzzle for octopi. Why, I ask?

"The poses are dynamic"
If the poses are so dynamic as to absolutely necessitate multi-part sculpts they are often over the top they are impractical for gaming purposes, or simply stupid.

Exhibit A: Leaping Wulver - so dynamic it's only fit for a diorama

"We need to cast in multiple parts to maintain a quality sculpt"
Actually, the excellent Empress/Red Star miniatures have comparable quality to Infinity.  They don't need 16 parts to make a single 28mm figure. In fact they seldom use more than two. They also cost $2.50 not $11 for a model. (Actually their Russians are a cheap way to bulk out an Ariadnan force)


Exhibit B: Red Star/Empress Miniatures  These have fine detail and excellent sculpts. They don't need a dozen parts to make a good 28mm model, either.

"People need to customize their models"
This is complete BS in a game like Infinity where there is likely only ever one of a particular model on the table at any time anyway, but even so:

(A) the average Infinity miniature has a locking socket (which seldom exactly lines up)which means minis (if attached properly) has an "exact" pose which is the same as every other similar model.  

(B) If people want variety they can simply stop slavishly copying the studio paint schemes.  I know not everyone does this, but I'd estimate 95% of armies I see are exact copies of what is on the cover of the miniatures box or rulebook.

"Kitbashers need the posability"
Anyone who buys two $11 boutique models with the intent to destroy one for parts is also more than capable of attacking them with a saw and copious greenstuff; and are not going to be too bothered if they screw up either.

Does anyone else feel this way?
I personally do not enjoy spending 30 minutes+ to assemble a single model. But obviously the miniatures manufacturers are catering to someone. Maybe there are people who deeply enjoy spending an hour on each miniature, and are proud of their results.  Perhaps mini makers think they making our hobby "deeper" by giving each figure with an Airfix-kit level of assembly.
I am in it to "wargame."  Modelling and painting are part of the hobby, obviously. But when I spend more time assembling models than painting or playing with them... meh.  
Or am I simply an embittered loner with opposable thumbs?

Ironically enough, these highly dynamic monks are 2 and 3-part models - simple and straightforward to assemble.  So dynamic does not naturally = millions of bits...

RANT #2:  The production quality of Infinity has dropped drastically.
I know why Infinity miniatures are $11+. It's because they now come with about double the actual miniature's worth of metal in flash and miscast pieces.

Every single piece of the models I assembled this week had copious flash or chunks of metal from the casting process still attached.  Removing these was very difficult at times and significantly marred the model (especially a model with such fine detail). The fine detail means mold lines (also very common) are harder to remove as well, as even with a fine file your removal attempts are usually quite noticeable.

I've had to send for missing parts three times in the past year.  Tip: keep your "error code" slips of paper handy until you've fully assembled the model. While Corvus Belli customer service is excellent, when you pay $11 to $40 for a single metal miniature I feel you have the right to expect molding quality at least equal to your usual $1-per-miniature bulk plastics. 

After having to "doctor" every piece of about a dozen models to make them usable, neat or even to simply make it fit where it belonged, I felt tempted to lump all the bits into a box and return them all, churlish as that may be.

I found it ironic (and very frustrating) that I assembled 100+ pieces worth of Viking longship - from a legitimate MODEL kit - faster than two Infinity miniatures. I also didn't have to take a file or knife to EVERY SINGLE PIECE .

I love the fact Infinity has been a success story, carving a niche outside the Warmahordes and GW kiddie-crack empires. But I think they may have outgrown their quality control......

By the way, here's a photo of the semi-finished Revell Viking Longship. It scales very well with 28mm. It was relaxing compared to assembling the Infinity stuff!

Paul Kearney - the best fantasy author you've never read

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That's a pretty bold claim. We have the heavily anticipated "AAA" authors like GRR Martin, Pat Rothfuss, Brandon Sanderson, Joe Abercrombie, Daniel Abraham, Scott Lynch and Peter Brett - but Kearney doesn't seem to even make the "B" list, which is rather astonishing considering his work compares favourably with all those mentioned, and tends to remind me somewhat of a mix between the "new fantasy" school and the late David Gemmell.

 The Hawkwood books have been condensed into two omnibus editions - Hawkwood and the Kings and Century of the Soldier - which seem the best and cheapest way to get the whole series.

Kearney's main body of work includes the Hawkwood series, the incomplete Sea Beggars trilogy, and the more recent Macht trilogy.

I'm focusing on the Hawkwood series as it is a good starting point. The Sea Beggars are considered better by many, but is incomplete, with the third book "due" since 2007 due to a publishing hiatus.

The Hawkwood series is fantasy, but its "world" mimics one of my favourite historic periods, the 15th-17th centuries dominated by the Spanish Empire. This is a world of galleons and muskets, but also includes magic and shapeshifters, duly opposed by the Inquisition and the ambitious Church.

The first book starts strongly, with a fishing boat encountering a drifting galleon with a dead crew... the hapless fishermen are promptly ripped apart by a terrifying creature hidden aboard.  It shifts to Aekir (Jerusalem) where the Merduk (Islamic) hordes are just sacking the city.  The dual storylines of the book are Hawkwood (sailing captain) on his journey to a dark and mysterious New World; and Corfe (soldier) a veteran of the sack of Aekir and destined to lead the defence against the Merduk hordes.

I found this series good but annoyingly incomplete. Apparently the final book "Storm of the Dead" is due out in 2014.

The Hawkwood books are excellent, with Kearney providing some of the best battle scenes I've come across. Many readers prefer the Hawkwood voyage over the Corfe military storyline, but I personally prefer the latter, perhaps simply due to the good battle scenes.

There is also plenty of intrigue - Kings, Queens and the meddling Church weave a tangled web of plotting, and in the background is the apparently unambitious Fimbrians - a sort of Roman Empire that once controlled much of the known world but has now retreated to become a kind of Switzerland.   Magic is on its way "out" and gunpowder and the Church are on the rise.

In the first books the seagoing kingdoms of the West face threats from without (the Eastern Merduk sultanates) and within (perhaps a more insidious threat from a church seeking secular power). But are there darker forces at work?  Guided by the log of the abandoned ship, a voyage to the New World faces many dangers, amongst them agents of a perhaps greater, hidden menace. 

I enjoyed the middle books the most, with their focus on the military battles and desperate defence against the Merduks.  The last book (Ships of the West) was something of a letdown - it reminds me of the ending to the Lord of the Rings movies - it dragged on and on, passing many logical "ending points." I reckon it could have been hacked down and appended to the earlier book, the Second Empire, which was for me the climax of the series.

Steven Erikson said they were the best series he'd read in years.  I'm not an Erikson fan (there's a difference between treating authors like grown ups and lazily not properly explaining things/assuming everyone understands your own little D&D world) but he's on the money here.  Kearney takes some rather cliched historical and fantasy references and makes them all his own, whilst avoiding the trap of being overly drawn out and wordy.  He blends the "new fantasy" of gritty heroes, dark plots, heartbreak and complex intrigue with the readability of David Gemmell. All the more impressive in that his Hawkwood series first came out in 1995.

Kearney's latest series is practically a retelling of Xenophons's march of the Ten Thousand

If you like the Hawkwood series, the Sea Beggars (with an even more naval flavour) is acknowledged by many to be better, but it is frustratingly incomplete.  Set in a world abandoned by it's Creator, the hero Rol is of the blood of an ancient race possessing magical powers. He is driven from his remote fishing village to be trained by a mysterious mentor, in a range of deadly arts.  Rol goes forth into the world to become a privateer.  The sequel is far more naval in nature, but ends rather abruptly - annoying since many have been waiting since 2007 for the ending to the series.

A "finished" series is his more recent work on the "Macht" - the not so subtle title "Ten Thousand" - gives away its roots - basically a retelling of Xenephon's Anabasis with a force of mercenary Macht (Greeks) stranded far from home inside the Assurian (Persian) Empire. Whilst its setting is far more vanilla (a.k.a almost straight historical fiction) than the "Hawkwood" series, it plays to Kearney's strengths.

TL:DR
Like great action scenes, gritty heroes, and complex plotting and intrigue, without having to wade through the 800+ page tomes which seem fashionable nowdays?  Paul Kearney marries the easy-reading style of David Gemmell with the gritty complexities of the "new fantasy" - and the more streamlined books mean you don't have to sign away a year of your life to try it out.

Recommended?  Absolutely. I wouldn't say he's above GRR Martin or Abercrombie, but he certainly deserves more plaudits than Peter Brett or Brent Weekes, all of who sell truckloads more books to much greater acclaim.  He seems to be able to finish a story without padding it out to 800-900 pages, which seems to be the "minimum" page limit  of a fantasy these days.

Dropzone Commander Rulebook Review

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This one created quite a bit of excitement locally but never really took off. I had the chance to look over a rulebook, but "passed" on them at the time -  my primary complaint was the models are 10mm rather than the more universal 15mm, so I could not use them alongside or against my existing models from GZG, Rebel, Khurasan, etc. 

Since then DZC (at least locally) has disappeared off the radar, and I don't see it too often in the wargaming blogs and sites I frequent.  Curious, I sent for my own copy, with the aim of testing the rules and deciding for myself.



I like the Posthuman Republic stuff... even if it looks like it was designed by Steve Jobs

The Shiny
The rulebook is very shiny - a lush glossy softcover. Whilst dubious about how it would stand up to repeated handling, I appreciate the quality finish and lavish photos of miniatures in action.  The terrain and modelling displayed is topnotch "gamer p0rn" and considering a home-style MS-Word B&W rulebook from 2HW also costs $20, the professional quality rulebook looks like exceptional value. It is pleasant to read, has photocopyable templates at the back, and sections are colour coded so you can find the general area. However, there is not a specific index so you will have to hunt around for a specific rules. This was pretty annoying. The rules aren't that long (35 ish pages) but... no index? Also, the rules seemed spread around a bit (not always logically) which exacerbated the problem. There is no quick-reference charts at the back of the book either. I'm sure they are a pdf on their website (edit: found them) but I'm not a fan of having to hunt around to download things that could just as easily have been included in the rules themselves.
Verdict: Eye candy, easy to understand - but could be better organized. 

The Fluff
Pretty generic. The backstories for how the four factions came to be. We have the manipulative-Eldar-greys Shaltari who want to use humanity for their own ends, organic living weapon "devour all life" Tyrannids Scourge, the standard humans (United Colonies of Man) and the good Cylons cyborgs of the Post Human Republic.  Nothing to get excited about here. The only thing I noted was the exceptional ugliness of the Scourge designs (their dropships look like CD-stackers with gribble stuck to it) and the weird leafy bits on the Shaltari which turned me off them completely.

The Scourge dropship looks more like a CD storage device than anything else

Likewise, the leafy lattice attachments to the Shaltari aerial vehicles make them look more like grandma's over-ornate brooch (or for that matter, a studded collar or female body part) rather than a weapon of war...
Unit Stats
The basic stats are
Armour - resilience
Movement <---this is often surprisingly short - i.e. 4" for a tank
Countermeasures class
Damage Points - hits can take before being destroyed
Pts Value
Squad Size/Coherency - the amount of units per squad, and coherency range
Special Rules

Nothing new here, except for the short move distance and the "countermeasures" (active or passive).

Activation
Units are grouped in squads which are part of an overall battlegroup. Opponents alternate activating battlegroups. So it's a mix of IGOUGO and "alternate movement" - you move a large portion of your force.  Squads can be deployed onto the table or kept "in readiness" and deployed later through any friendly board edge.  Squads "in reserve",however, must pass a dice roll to enter the board.

Players can also use and discard "command cards." They are not necessary to play, but add "flavour" to games and add another layer of tactical options.  Commanders are mounted inside specialist vehicles and they can play cards on units within their command radius. 

Troops move slowly. I mean, really slowly. Infantry move only around 2" which forces you to use dropships and transports.  It makes sense in the context of the game, but I found it a bit jarring compared to other games I am used to.

I was really taken by their "Cityscape" card terrain and I'll probably get it for other purposes... $45 for a table full of terrain is not too shabby...

Combat
Weapons had a "standard" range an a "countered" range (if their target is equipped with countermeasures systems). Countermeasures are active (only good against kinetic weapons) and passive (die roll for % chance to block all weapons types).  Basically countermeasures act as a range reduction (i.e. infinite range if no CM, 36" maximum if CM).  Not a huge fan of "guess the range" in any game but it seems silly in sci fi (laser rangefinders anyone?).

Given the long weapon ranges and short movement ranges, terrain is very important. I was impressed with their coloured card-stock terrain (which fills a complete 6x4' table for $45).  I did not like the hit allocation system which seemed a little clunky.

Buildings and structures are quite important as they can be garrisoned by troops; searching or holding buildings forms the basis of many scenarios.  Infantry tend to shine when hidden inside buildings and can storm a building to evict enemy troops.

Not all aerial craft look silly...  the Archangel interceptor (above) and the Athena class look pretty sharp...

Aircraft & Dropships
Given the proliferation of dropships and gunships, AA fire is important and can be used in "reaction" provided the unit has not already fired that turn. 

Aircraft are classes as VTOL-like "normal" craft and "fast movers" (i.e. like modern jets); the latter move to fast to be on the table and have a special move sequence. They move from a nominated table edge, to their firing position, then off another table edge.  Interceptors can attack enemy fast movers in a similar move sequence.  Aircraft can fly normally (6" altitude) or "on the deck" (2"); aircraft flying so low must make piloting tests or crash into buildings and terrain in their path.  Aircraft can land and take off from the battlefield as long as the LZ is not too "hot"

As you'd expect for a game named "Dropzone Commander" dropships are vital for moving troops (and vehicles) to objectives.  Troops can be carried Russian-doll style i.e. infantry carried in an APC that is carried in a dropship. 

Scenarios
These are far more complex than the usual "kill em all" 40k-style deathmatch.  Troops often have to search buildings for "objectives", collect intel, holding buildings in the enemy half of the table, seizing vital buildings and strongpoints, breaking through enemy defences, hunting for objectives behind enemy lines, demolishing key structures, assassinating commanders, seizing a bridgehead.. and so on.  I was very impressed with the variety and range of missions and they should keep you interested for a long time.The average table is only 4x4' (easy to make terrain for) though you can use bigger tables.

Having your gun on a flexible arm makes a lot of sense.... you can go "hull down" almost anywhere...

"Army Books" and Army Building
This is the "codex" for each faction. It contains a little background on the government, alliances, technology and weaponry of each faction, as well as comprehensive stats for each unit.
I noticed the only thing without countermeasures is infantry, and each faction is either "active" or
passive" which makes me wonder if there was a simpler way to do the countermeasures rules.

Army building itself gave me a mild headache, and might be a confusing for a new player. I suspect there will be an Excel spreadsheet or app along soon to simplify stuff. (Edit: also found it)  A good balance of troop types are needed given the way various unit types interact with each other.

TL:DR
Mixed feelings about this still; the 10mm models don't work with my usual 15mm, and some gorgeous models are offset by some other rather ugly designs. The rules themselves are nothing revolutionary but seem to work well to  force a combined-arms approach due to the short movement ranges of infantry, which dictate the use of transports and dropships to actually move from A to B in a reasonable amount of time; and the fact infantry are necessary to capture buildings and complete scenarios.

The movement ranges seem short compared to other games; and the long range of most weapons compared to relatively short move distances means you need plenty of terrain; in fact lots of terrain is dictated by most scenarios. The paper terrain sets (both free and premade) look useful - I'll probably grab the $45 preprinted set regardless of whether I get the official minis or not. 

I do really like the wide range of scenarios which range well beyond the usual "kill em all."  Heck there was even a scenario for a four-way! Army building was a bit too complicated for me, but there is a tool that will help with this. The last two sentences sounded weird when I re-read them :-/
I also like how there aren't a zillion special rules and "exceptions" (*cough* Infinity Malifaux Warmachine *cough*).

Personally I'm not sure if I'll get into it as I am already heavily invested in 28mm, 15mm and 6mm sci fi and I don't need another scale, neither do the rules mechanics excite me enough to switch me away from the platoon-level action and logical gameplay of Tomorrow's War.  The rules are a good alternative to the 6mm sets (Epic, Future War Commander) but being tied to a specific product line hurts them a bit.  Though a starter is $80, a decent army would run you $150-$250... and for $10 I can play "Supreme Commander" on PC....

Recommended: A tidy, well-presented game which emits a strong "Command and Conquer" vibe.  Gameplay is solid but unspectacular, but it comes together to make a strong "package."  It seems a quality product with good effort put into it.

Heavy Gear: Blitz - Starter Set and Rulebook Review

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Heavy Gear and GW's Imperialis Aeronautica are two games I have eyed off for a long time, but never "got into" solely because they seemed so vastly overpriced.  With the inevitable demise of the latter (GW always lets its interesting games die - cue Epic, Bloodbowl, Mordhiem, Necromunda, Man O War, Space Hulk...) I decided to try Heavy Gear, "dipping my toes in" with a starter set ($65).

 The starter contained 2 small A5 rulebooks (Heavy Gear Blitz: Reloaded and the Field Manual) and 3 mecha each for the "Northern" and "Southern" factions, some dice and a nifty little measuring tape.

Starter Set & Pricing (The Elephant in the Room)
The starter set seems quite reasonable - the two little B&W rulebooks are similar to the ones you find in FoW or 40K box sets and are have considerably more packed into them.  However getting three minis for each side isn't even enough for a normal sized 4 or 5 mecha squad.  A cynic might suspect this was done on purpose.

DP9 seems to have copied its pricing policies direct from GW.  $50 for a 5-mecha squad ($10 a mini) is quite steep considering you need multiple squads, and the sculpts themselves are nothing special.

I also pay $10 for a single 28mm sculpt in Infinity - but there are two big differences:
(a) Infinity sculpts are dynamically posed, unique works of art; DP9 mechs are static, chunky copies
(b) Infinity you need 5-10 models ($50-$100) for an army; DP9 needs 15-20 models ($160-310); a single Infinity model can radically alter your gameplay options; a new mini IS a complete new unit

In addition, the DP9 vehicles are outrageously expensive.  Here's a comparison:

GZG 15mm metal tank $13ea

Dropzone Commander 10mm Resin tank $7.50ea

DP9 10mm Resin tank $43ea
Maybe it is made out of the same stuff as GW's "Finecr@p" that makes it worth 6x more than the Dropzone Commander stuff. It's even 4x more than a metal 15mm tank... Why?  Probably because it is worth a lot of "points" in game. 

The sculpts themselves are sound but unspectacular. They often include a range of weapon fits and with a bit of talent and steady hands you could magnetize and swap weapon loadouts. I do like the design aesthetic, but if there were any viable alternatives, I'd be on them like a flash.

Sadly, there isn't many mecha alternatives in smaller scales either (GZG has a small range of not-VOTOMs in 6mm; otherwise Battletech battlesuits/battlearmour are your best bet for 6mm). Unsurprisingly, DP9's own "fleetscale" mecha (about the size of a 15mm infantrymen) are also very expensive - at $2ea they are 3x more expensive than identically sized 6mm GZG mecha.

A mech-only 1000TV game that includes 3-4 Gear squads may be cheaper (~$160+) but add a single walker and a tank you can add another $100 or so... I calculated it would cost me $310 for a decently varied force. That's Games Workshop territory.


 I bought my starter from Wayland games as postage was less onerous than from DP9 direct.

Rulebook Review
The Shiny
Well, being a small A5 B&W softcover set (colour cover) the rulebooks in the starter kit are not very shiny. In fact, they are so cramped (size 6 font?) as to be all but unreadable unless you have 20/20 vision.<---If you can't read that you will struggle with the rules, especially the vehicle data sheets at the back.  That said, the rules are very complete and include army lists and data for three of the main factions, with the CEF being the notable exception.  The table of contents is thorough and there is a quick reference section at the back. The tiny photocopyable marker templates are of limited value - you'd have to put a lot of effort into making them usable. The rules themselves are a handy 35 pages - the remaining 170 are devoted to other things - there is a modelling and painting guide, a photo gallery (which presumably would be more impressive in a fullsize colour version), a timeline and plenty of historical fluff, scenarios, and army data.   The Heavy Gear universe has been the subject of wargames, RPGs and videogames for a few decades now so its backstory and fluff is very well fleshed out. 

Plenty of good content packed into a compact, portable A5 book but veryhard on the eyes.

Initiative & Activation
Opponents alternate moving units by combat group (usually 4-5 mechs or 1-2 larger vehicles, or up to 12 bases of infantry). There is no forced coherency (though sometimes it is a good idea to keep your mechs concentrated) and in fact you can split your combat groups into sub-groups of 2-3 mechs or single vehicles, which makes it almost an alternate move game.   Each unit has a series of actions (used for moving at high speeds, attacking or using special abilities) it can use when it is activated.  Simple and sensible. I also like the inclusion of "overwatch" - you can hold fire in your move in order to fire in your opponent's turn.

Heavy Gear was also a PC game back in the Mechwarrior heyday...
Movement
Units can use stationary, combat or top speeds with corresponding hit/to hit penalties, which add tactical choices at the expense of having to track speed (usually with a d6 beside the miniature -which may bother people who dislike markers and dice cluttering the tabletop.) Moving at high speed uses an action.

A typical Gear moves around 6-12" in wheeled mode and 4-7" when walking.  Standard weapons range to 48" and support weapons can go to 72"+ - this means a sensible amount of cover for your battlefield is important to avoid things becoming a long-range slugfest. 

Spotting & Target Locks
Units need to "lock" their targets before they can fire.  Units in line of sight are automatically locked, but they need to fulfil certain conditions to detect models in cover; or spend an action to attempt an "Active Lock".  This is mostly done in conjunction with indirect fire, and is often done by forward observers/scout gears. 

Actually, Heavy Gear as a PC game looks like it's making a return via Kickstarter

Combat
Ranged attacks are quite clever, albeit sporting an annoying number of modifiers.  The attacker rolls several dice and chooses the best one. Each additional "6" adds +1 to the total.
Both attacker and defender make rolls. The amount the attacker succeeds by is the "margin of success."  The weapon attack rating is multiplied by this to find the total damage.  The better the shot, the more damage is done. This is rather logical and works better than the usual "roll to hit, then roll seperately (and randomly) for any critical hits"

Ammunition is sensibly abstracted. Any time all the dice rolled are less than the "Ammo Check" number, the weapon is out of ammo after that attack.  Flanking is encouraged by the "crossfire" rule - bonuses to attack when a different attacker fires at the same target from further than 90d from the original firer. Melee combat includes handheld weapons and also ramming foes at top speed

Damage is very practical - there are still damage levels to maintain that "mecha" feel but it is abstracted sensibly into "light"  "heavy" and "critical" instead of rolling special criticals or hits to individual limbs. Mechs can also be stunned or knocked down by the effects of fire.

Units can use their actions for other things besides combat - they may reserve their fire ("reaction fire" or "overwatch") - to fire on models that activate and move later. Missile or artillery equipped units may also elect to wait for friendly locks.  Units can hide or go "hull down" to increase survivability or negate defensive penalties. Squad leaders can declare "co ordinated fire" bonuses against targets which make grouping units together advantageous at times, without any artificial forced "stay in 3" coherency" rules.

Apart from the multitude of modifiers, there is a lot to like about the combat mechanics. 

A 5-gear squad will set you back around $50

Command Points & ECM
You also get an abstract resource called "Command Points" which can be spent by army commanders and (to a more limited extent) squad leaders.  These can be used to re-roll any dice rolls, activate models out of sequence, grant an extra attack, and allow dead models to take a "parting shot."

Units with ECM may attempt to block the use of command points (and other comm events such as forward observation attempts) which can be countered by ECCM.  Like Command Points, this adds another layer of "metagame" which I find interesting.
 
Scenarios, Missions & Campaigns
There should never be long lines of sight, and lots of terrain is recommended. Open areas greater than 4-5"can become "kill zones" which are difficult to cross safely, and can hinder movement more than buildings and forests. Think "Infinity" rather than "40K" when it comes to terrain density.

Combat groups have a morale level which can be tested by friendlies being destroyed, crossfire, incendiary attacks and similar events.  Units who "break" have -1 to rolls and must seek cover. They can be "rallied" through the use of command points.

Missions are defensive, offensive or standard. They come with their own list of objectives, which must be achieved to gain VPs. These include escaping a table edge, recon on enemy units, scouting objectives, blockading areas, protecting specific friendly units, holding a specific terrain area, assassinating enemy leaders, and seizing enemy terrain or deployment zones.  Airstrikes and artillery can be bought and "called in" and move and attack in an abstract manner.   Simple campaign guidelines are given which include replacing, re-arming and repairing units. 

Striders (large mecha) offer serious fire support, but at $35 to $50ea, they'd want to....

Vehicle Data
This is a bit complicated looking, and to make it worse I had to readthemin almost incomprehensibly small print.
For anyone who is used to the heavy use of data cards (Warmachine, etc) I'm sure they will be no great burden.  Personally, I tend to prefer rules where you can remember key data in your head after a few play throughs - like GW's underrated LOTR series.

There were also sample 1000 TV army lists.  I priced them out and a typical army of 14 mechs (with no supporting vehicles or infantry) would come in at around $185 not including P&P.

Fluff & Stuff
There are detailed army lists and fluff  which personally didn't interest me, but is well fleshed out as you would expect of a universe with decades of RPG background.  There are short histories, timelines, army doctrine, vehicle profiles, unit organisation, awards, factional special rules, etc.  There is a modelling and painting guide, and comprehensive weapon tables

Important information included the way squads or "combat groups" can be constructed.  Squads are pretty "standard" but can be customized quite drastically with specialist mechs and weapon loadouts depending on their purpose (recon, strike, fire support etc).

There are about 30 cannons and guns, 11 rockets and missiles, and 13 support weapons like mortars, flamers and grenade launchers, 10 railguns & lasers, and 11 infantry weapons.  This is a rather huge assortment, but it is mitigated by the fact most weapons are available to everyone, and most are simply heavy. medium and light variants of the same weapon type - you won't be destroyed unexpectedly by a mysterious superweapon or special ability you've never heard of.

There is also a list of perks and special abilities for mechs.  There are about 50, but again, they are shared between all factions and do not tend to be gamebreaking superpowers a la Warmachine or Malifaux, but usually minor upgrades like anti-missile systems which add a defensive bonus against missiles, or minor defects like exposed sensors (which are disabled at a lower damage level than usual.)
The Heavy gear games draw from a rich Jovian Chronicles RPG heritage
 TL:DR
 If you have less than perfect eyesight the rules in the starter kit aren't for you; and getting less than a complete squad for each side in a starter was also a bit of a dubious deal. And $43 for a Flames-of-War size tank - that's just crazy money.  I'd definitely buy vehicles elsewhere... where they are a fraction of the price.

It's a little sad, as Heavy Gear has some very good mechanics.  Firing is quite lethal - you'll need a good amount of terrain; and the game has a pleasant level of complication and tactics (EW, indirect fire, stealth, different move modes) without bogging down. Whilst it has an annoying number of modifiers, I like the opposed roll and "margin of success" which means more precise shots do greater damage, rather than rolling to hit, then rolling later for random "criticals."

The damage levels of mechs (light damage, heavy and critical) are sensible and satisfying, as opposed to the tedium of marking off hundreds of armour and structure boxes on a myriad of body parts  *cough* Battletech *cough* and it is a combined arms game where air, armour and infantry can join in with the mechs.  I can see how a campaign where you buy and repair mechs, and "level up" pilots would be quite fun, akin to the old Mech Commander videogame.

Command points, ECM and movement modes add layers of tactics and decision-making, and I am impressed with the general mechanics and gameplay.  

Overall - a rather good game, which occupies the combined-arms mecha niche alongside Reaper's somewhat obscure CAV series.

Recommended?  I like the models, I like the rule mechanics, I like the game as a whole - but I cannot recommend it at the current prices (buy-in is around $200+).  It's might be OK if you have a thriving local Heavy Gear scene but I suspect this is unlikely for most people.  In addition, the relative obscurity of the game means picking up a cheap secondhand army on eBay would be akin to winning the lottery. You're better off getting involved in kiddie crack Warhammer 40K - and I don't say that too often!

If you like the mech action but don't want sell a kidney in order to play Heavy Gear, the gladiatorial version (Heavy Gear: Arena) might be a cheaper alternative with its smaller "skirmish" scale and lower miniature requirements. 

Other options: Reaper's CAV has free rules and models that cost a third of the price; Battletech is more popular, and needs only 4-5 mechs (and thus a much cheaper $50-60 buy-in), and has a decent secondhand market (and the potential to re-base and re-purpose cheap plastic clix mechs).

Vikings! (& 28mm Wargames Factory Miniatures)

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Initially I was unimpressed with this TV series, perhaps spoilt by the drama and production values of Game of Thrones.  But as the series has progressed I have become more and more interested.  The battle scenes are good, and the portrayal of vikings, whilst not 100% accurate, is far less Hollywood than I initially expected.

Vikings - a surprisingly good show, by..   ...the History Channel...
WARNING: MAY ALSO INSPIRE WARGAMING IN NEW PERIOD

Inspired by the small scale skirmish potential, I have decided to finally plunge into Dark Ages warfare.  I already have the interesting SAGA ruleset, and I am impressed by the flexibility and versatility of Lord of the Rings.  Although SAGA is popular and purpose-built for Viking warfare, and I really like the layer of tactics introduced by the battle-boards...  ...I am likely leaning towards LOTR.  The system is well proven in the Legends of the High Seas/Old West series of skirmish campaign games, and allows for individual warriors to progress, something SAGA currently cannot cater for.

As a bonus, terrain requirements are relatively light - I am tossing up between grabbing a few pre-painted hovels by ACE or simply scratch-building my own.

 
 The 4ground mdf prepaints are dirt cheap at $15ea, but it would also be simple to make my own. A benefit to viking warfare; terrain is not a major issue.

I have recently got a Revell 1:50 viking longship. The shields in the longships perfectly line up with the shields on the miniatures I have, which was an unexpected bonus.

 The viking longship scales (to my eyes anyway) perfectly with 28mm miniatures. 

The shields on the minis and the ship itself are identical in size.

Wargames Factory Miniatures Review (Viking Huscarls, Viking Bondi)
 Wargames Factory miniatures have a bit of an indifferent reputation.  A bit of a shame, as they are priced well (32 for $20), and make their miniatures in conjunction with wargamers (the Liberty & Union League). They even tried to recycle used sprues....

Multi-part Models... every miniature unique....
Well, I have a bone to pick with the Liberty & Union League, as they wanted the models with separate arms, legs and heads. And regular followers of this blog know how much I adore multi part models. This has enabled me to build every model with its own unique look. Unrealistic, contorted, but unique, tis true.  Although easy to attach arms and heads, the joins look a little "off."

The Miniatures look unique but most possible poses would give this girl a run for her money. The archer arms in particular are rather nasty. I'd recommend using Perry WOTR archer arms instead. 

The archers were the worse culprits for weird poses. It was hard to do a "shooting" pose that didn't look like a drunk playing air guitar
Bitz Galore
You can't complain about what you get on a sprue.  Spare heads, and enough arms to make every man look like Shiva.  The sprues are very handy for spare heads, arms and weapons - though the weapons are rather finely proportioned.

 There's so many spare arms, you could kitbash this dude if you wanted.  Admittedly, he'd have viking headgear.  
Fine Scale
They are comparable to GW's LOTR 28mm with fine proportions.  Weapons in particular are quite small, and the models are indeed 1:56 "true" scale rather than the more heroic 28mm.  A quick google around shows they do mix fine with Gripping Beast metals and plastics, which surprised me somewhat. 

You get a lot of spares. As you can see, after assembling 44 vikings, I have 20 bodies, 30+ heads, about 100 pairs of arms, and enough weapons to arm them three times over. 

Detailing
Detail is quite reasonable and again I would compare it to GW's LOTR range by the Perrys.
Detail is sound but unspectacular, and should be pleasant to paint. Weapons and arms are a bit fine and I bent/broke a few weapons when taking them off their sprues. 

TL:DR
+ separate arms & heads allow lots of unique poses
+ sound detail
+ plenty of spare parts on the sprue
+ fine scale but mixes fine with Gripping Beast 28mm plastics
+ price is good; $20 for 32 models
- multipart models as usual take ages to put together
- poses/joins look unnatural (<--this is the big concern)

Recommended: Well, I'd buy more Wargames Factory stuff (and in fact ordered some Ashigaru for my samurai project), and the sprues are solid value for the kitbashing purposes alone. I could make two SAGA warbands for $40 which isn't bad value.  I found the unarmoured "Bondi" sprues the most versatile.  The most annoying thing was the weird poses, due to the multipart nature of the models.  Apparently the customers wanted them that way. I'd like to find those customers, and force them, on pain of death, to put mine together in natural poses.

Wild West Exodus: Deadlands 28mm Weird West Miniature Options

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I came across Wild West Exodus by accident in my search for Deadlands miniatures.  It seems very slickly presented and raised $332,000 - a tad more than the $20,000 kickstarter goal.  I'm sure I'll review the skirmish rules when they come out, but for now I'll content myself with linking some photos of the upcoming miniatures:



The Indian "Sky Spirit" and werewolf "Sitting Bull" of the Indian faction which has a heavy shapeshifter vibe....


 
The "Enlightened" are the mad scientist faction with plenty of clockwork gizmos; they remind me of Malifaux arcanists somewhat...

Jesse James looking "hip" with body armour
 
Union soldiers also have a steampunk vibe

Anyway, I'm sure you'll investigate the link to find out more, so continuing the theme of "miniatures for Deadlands" - besides the aforementioned "Malifaux"....

No weird west game would be complete without undead "ladies of the night"


These "Guild Autopsies" would make decent undead cowboys... I just resent paying $6 apiece for a plastic miniature....

There are also a wealth of new VSF/steampunk games like "Empire of the Dead" - of whom many characters could be transplanted to the Wild West....

The Victorian civilian zombies would fix OK in the Wild West - especially if you kitbashed their caps into cowboy hats or bowlers.... there is also a "Werewolf" range that looks quite suitable

Reaper do official Deadlands miniatures for the RPG, but the line is rather limited.  


The undead cowboy and "Old Pete" were my favourites

Finally, there is also the old Rail Wars miniatures which were available through Jeff Valent studios.  I have a few and did not like the chunky model design or sculpt quality so I can't recommend them.  In addition, I hear some dubious stories about orders being (or rather not being) filled, which may simply be salacious gossip, but the fact I can't get the website to work is a bit concerning.

Ignoring monsters (which can be sourced from almost anywhere) and standard cowboys/civilians - of which there are large ranges available from Black Scorpion (my favourite) and smaller models from Foundry, among others  - I'm keen to source more "Weird West" miniatures.  Zombies/undead are a particular interest, as they tend to be rather obviously either modern, sci fi, or fantasy.   

Muskets & Tomahawks: 28mm French & Indian Wars Wargames Rules Review

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I've been looking for historical eras that lend themselves well to skirmish gaming. I also like those with little to no cavalry - for some reason with cavalry I always feel I need for dismounted versions which aren't always on offer.

I came across the French and Indian Wars after watching the Last of the Mohicans for the first time, being somewhat suspicious of its "realism" and reading up on the topic.  Small raids and skirmishes by the bucketload, not a cavalrymen in sight - and canoes. Canoes are cool.

I already have Sharpe Practicewhich is a very complete blackpowder skirmish ruleset, but I heard of Muskets & Tomahawks whilst looking through SAGA stuff. Apparently they're an earlier ruleset which were released later, presumably on the back of SAGA's success.

Whilst it does come with cards for playing the game, I'd be lying if I said I thought Muskets & Tomahawks was fantastic value for money.
The Shiny
Colour cover, black and white glossy softcover.  A sensible 63 pages.  Rather pricey at $40 for a 63 page softcover - which is similar to the highly polished, well-produced full-colour hardcover Infinity art books rulebooks, but it also comes with a set of cards needed to play the game. The book was also not written by a native English speaker - it's quite readable but has some quirks. The index is a bit generalised but it has a decent quick reference section.  In short, a bit pricey for what you get but a quite clear, usable rulebook.

Game Stats
The author's other ruleset, SAGAis driven by battleboards - the gameplay itself is rather beer-and-pretzels. Troops are in 3 broad categories - with identical stats across all factions. The differentiation comes from the different racial battleboards.  I like the tactics of battleboards and fatigue but SAGA feels a bit simple and "boardgamey."

Muskets & Tomahawks is a little more traditional.  Troops have 4 main stats:
Movement (usually 4-6")
Aggressiveness (3 to 6 - represents hand to hand "to hit")
Defence (3 to 6 - represents hand to hand "defence")
Markmanship (3 to 6 - represents ranged weapon "to hit.")

They are further classified into Regulars, Irregulars, Provincials, Militia, Indians, Artillery and Civilians who activate differently and have different reactions/morale.

There are also traits such as "scouts" (can move easily through rough terrain and use hidden movement), "sharpshooters" who can re-roll any '1's when firing, be able to use a "firing line" which does bonuses to firing and hurts enemy morale.

Units are usually 6-12 models. Interestingly, cohesion is equal to movement speed.  So rangers with 6" movement have 6" cohesion - regulars with 4" movement have 4" cohesion. This seems logical and I'm surprised I haven't seen it before.  

  
Warlord games are selling the Conquest line.  They have excellent postage rates.

Card Driven Mechanics
Each player pulls cards from a deck. He can activate any of his troops of that type. I.e. if an "Irregular" card is pulled, any of his Irregulars can act.   The cards make troops behave differently - Indians get 4 cards, each of which allows one action.  Regulars get 2 cards, but can perform 2 actions per card.  Officers and elite troops get an extra action card.  Officers can give their action to a unit within 6" and thus can influence the battle around them, rather like in GW's LOTR.

Morale cards, when pulled, cause a morale check to be made, if 50% casualties have been taken. Event cards will be added for certain scenarios.  Optional rules include allowing players to have a "hand" of three cards, allowing more forward planning. Actions include firing, moving, and reloading.

Zombie Indians? Shut up and take my money!

Spotting & Hidden Movement
Units see in a 180d arc. They can pivot around but it places a penalty on their firing. Scout units can be replaced with "hidden markers" (Sharpe Practice calls these "blinds") - tokens that replace the unit. Dummy markers can also be utilised - handy for confusing and ambushing your foes. 

Units need to "spot" their opponent before they can engage them. Dense cover and weather conditions such as mist or darkness can reduce this to very short ranges.

Terrain &Weather 
Terrain includes various levels of cover and areas of particular difficulty to traverse. There are rules for shooting into/out of/at buildings (and destroying them and/or setting them on fire).  Units can enter waterways to swim - or canoe - but current will have an effect. There are rules for shooting out of canoes - and at them - and a artillery shot into a canoe has impressive effects.  Dusk or night fighting rules are included, as are rules for rain, snow, and strong winds.


The Perry War of Independence line has perhaps the cheapest quality miniatures. I particularly like their civilian line - I grabbed them for use in scenarios.

Shooting & Reloading
If a target is spotted and in line of sight, a d6 is rolled for each firing model.  Crack units hit on a 3+, civilians on a 6+.  Obviously shots can be modified so a shot needs a 7+, 8+ etc to hit.  In that case, any natural '6' still hits, but the difference between the '6' and the actual roll needed is deducted from the damage roll.  A damage roll is then made based on the lethality of the weapon. Rifles kill on a 3+, whilst long range archery might only kill on a '6'.

Units that have fired must "reload' before firing again. The have "Black Powder" rules (annoyingly found in the Weapons section 10 pages on) which means figures who fire a musket etc have a "smoke" marker next to them which means they cannot fire until they reload and they are easier to spot.  It seems a little weird as a soldier who fires his weapon, then takes 5 move actions, would technically still have the spotting penalty, even though the smoke would logically have dissipated. 

Melee works in a similar matter - roll above a unit's "Aggression" rating to score hits, and the target rolls above its "Defence" rating to cancel the hits. 

Reactions
Any unit that suffers casualties must roll on the reaction table.  Results include "routing"from the board, "fleeing" a move away from the enemy, "recoiling" back but still facing their foes.
 Different units behave differently. Regular troops are rather steady and will recoil in good order, but seldom flee or rout.  Indians flee easily, but also seldom rout, whereas militia are unlikely to simply recoil - they will stand their ground or completely break or flee. 

Weapons & Artillery
Some key rules like "Black Powder" probably should have been in the shooting section. It includes the weapon stats for muskets, carbines, bows, rifles, pistols, sabres, thrown weapons, grenades, lances and swivel guns.  Weapons typically have a range (24" for muskets), lethality (3+ or more; die roll to kill) and a special rule, i.e. Black Powder or One Shot Weapon.

Artillery rules are available - most used will be limited number and of limited size (i.e. usually under 6lb).  Artillery shoots in a straight line from the barrel and can take out multiple troops in its path.  Cannister is short ranged, and deadly in a arc.  Artillery have their own activation cards.

These Indians are also Perry Miniatures. 

Officers
These could be labelled "heroes" in LOTR, or "Big Men" in Sharpe Practice. They are their own unit, they never react to being shot at, and cannot be individually targeted if they are close to their men. They help boost morale of nearby troops and can have certain talents.

Officers may have talents specific to their troop type (regular, militia, Indian, etc) and a few general talents.  These include talents such as "Charismatic" (bonus to troops reaction tests); "Drill" (roll d6, a 5+ means a free reload action for nearby troops); Agile (+1d6 movement). There are about 20+ all up.  Your leaders' talents add a nice RPG element - I'll probably have mine gain new talents as games progress. 

Scenario Generator, Objectives, Side Plots & Random Events
Table size depends on points of troops used - a 200 point game (20-30 per side) will play on a 4x4 table; a 600 point would require a 8x4 or a 6x6 one.  Owning enough buildings for a small hamlet is mandatory - only 2 for a small game, but up to 5-6 for a big game.  Luckily Zvezda 1/72 log cabins are very cheap ($12 for 2) and fit OK-ish with 28mm.  A random roll is made for the building placement. Other scenery is placed by mutual agreement.  There should be no scenery-free lines greater than 24".  Players roll for weather then the general objective (slaughter, raid, scout mission, protection, defence or engagement). To keep things interesting there are 36 "side plots" which could include anything from a "Romance" (protect a lady through the battle) to "Capture" (defeat enemy in melee then carry off a prisoner).  In addition, there are also 36 random events.  A random event could  herald a weather change, friendly fire, a wild animal attack, a coffee break... I guess that's why they're called random events - they're pretty random.

 
Warlord supplies a "Last of the Mohicans" pack. Must.... ...resist.... buying...

Army Lists
There are lists for British, German mercenaries, French, Indians, Americans, and civilians (who can be added to scenarios).  Force creation is pretty simple - you need one officer, and 10 troops of any given type.  Artillery is limited to one cannon per 30 models, and you're allowed one officer per 10 models.  Aside from that, it's pretty relaxed.  You can buy troops in units of any size allowed (usually 6-12). Officers can buy random talents for 5pts each. You can get free talents if you have a Commander, but if he dies, it impacts morale.  You can also buy boats. 

Each army has a little blurb about it. Stat lines are easy and pleasant to read.  Army building is simple and pleasant.

TL:DR
(-) A little on the pricey side but I suppose you do get the activation cards too
(-) "Black Powder" spotting mechanic seems a little "gamey"/illogical

(+) Spotting, hidden movement and "blinds" add layer of surprise and tactics
(+) Officers have unique talents and abilities which add tactics and storytelling flavour
(+) Card mechanic means units types (militia, regulars, Indians etc) behave and act very differently
(+) Combat is simple without being overly simplistic
(+) Scenarios are interesting with zillions of side-plots and random events adding spice
(+) Army building is simple
(+) Unit stats are simple (4 key stats) with maybe one "special trait"; you won't get ambushed through obscure special rules *cough* Malifaux *cough*

Recommended?  Yep.  A little more polished and coherent than "Sharpe Practice" (TFL games often seem like a aggregation of house rules thrown together) and I like them better than the author's other offering, SAGA (the battleboards are cool but simplistic mechanics mean the overall effect is a bit boardgame-y). I definitely find them more fluid than the other French-Indian War ruleset "This Very Ground". In the same era, Two Hour Wargames do "Long Rifle" and "Muskets and Mohawks"but I don't even need to buy them to know they will be the millionth regurgitation of their "reaction" mechanics, with a decent campaign for solo gaming offset by average gameplay and irritating if not incoherent rules editing and layout.  
So, yes, Muskets & Tomahawks will be my go-to ruleset for FIW.






Cheap Cardboard Wargames Terrain for 10mm & 15mm Modern/Sci Fi - Dropzone Commander

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I'm always on the lookout for cheap, easy terrain.  I've had mostly-good experience with Terraclips (though it is a pain in the neck to assemble) so when I saw that Hawk Wargames put out a 6x4 "table" worth of cardboard cityscape for their 10mm game, Dropzone Commander, I couldn't resist.

 Rather thin cardboard... but a decent amount of it...
The Shiny
I was a bit disappointed on unboxing. A bunch of card sheets, stuffed rather loosely in the box. The card was rather thin, and I was a little disappointed by the contents. It was just so... flimsy and cardboardy....    But then I spread it out and realised there was rather a lot of it....

The Base
The base tiles were double sided offering a huge range of customisation options. However the thin card was very noticeable here - you don't want to set up your table in an area with a draught. The thin edges also curled up a bit annoyingly and never properly "met" together leaving gaps. 

I realized how many ground tiles there were when I didn't have a game table big enough to accommodate them all....The thin card stood out most here.
Assembly
It comes ready to fold so putting the buildings together was a cinch - it took about 20 minutes. 
I decided to glue the edges so that added about another 40 minutes of fiddling.  Overall, assembly was easy and quick.  I dislike having to assemble and "prep" models and buildings so thumbs up  from me. As a bonus - no painting required!

 The buildings brought the table to life... This is the point where I started to grin, and my wife made impressed noises and went to fetch her camera
Scale
I wondered how it would go with my 15mm collection - so here are some Micropanzer SAS and GZG UNSC troops for scale. Vehicles are all GZG.





A UNSC Patrol advances along the street. The 15mm troops look fine with the 10mm buildings.

A low angle shot. The 15mm stuff still scales well.


Micropanzer SAS advance along a road.

The rear of the SAS column; note scale of building windows etc compared to 15mm

Low angle shots help you appreciate just how big the 6x4 worth of ground squares is....

In short, I thought it scaled very well with 15mm and I'm definitely using this terrain for Tomorrow's War or sci fi WarmachineGruntz games in 15mm. 

TL:DR
OK, what's the good and bad?
(+) easy to assemble - a 20-60 minute job depending on your level of effort
(+) huge amount of terrain
(+) extremely cheap - complete table with skyscrapers for the price of 2 resin buildings
(+) quality art and colour
(+) wide range of building types
(+) wide range of ground tiles (double sided)
(+) useful with the common 15mm sci fi/modern as well as 10mm games such as Dropzone Commander, Battletech, Heavy Gear, and Firestorm:Invasion etc
(+) looks fine for modern gaming (such as 15mm zombies) as well as sci fi
(+) my wife thought it was "really cool" and well worth the $$$

(-) thin card, especially noticeable on the base (ground) tiles, which can curl up edges/be bumped
(-) buildings easily bumped (or blown) around
(-) storage is a pain. Yes, you could re-flatten them but they're not particularly suited for it

Recommended: Yes.  I'd buy more, but the one box has more buildings than I'd ever need anyways. A steal at $44. I'd pay $100 for the same terrain in thicker cardboard, though. Heck, even thicker cardboard for the base tiles. If Hawk Wargames ever produces another set, I'll snap them up in a flash.

PS: I also compared the DzC terrain to 6mm miniatures here.  

Dropzone Commander Card Terrain with 6mm Minis

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This is for "Mr Average" from TMP.

I initially thought "6mm with 10mm buildings?"
Small scale minis with big buildings (especially big windows and doorways) = stupid, right?

But I plunked down some models on terrain..... and was surprised how well the models fit with the roads....

The 6mm vehicles fit the road markings really well. Note the thin cardboard base tiles curling up which I complained about in my review.

But what about the doors and windows etc? They are usually the biggest give-away for out-of-scale stuff.
You could drive a tank through that door.... literally...

The infantry are dwarfed by the air conditioning ducts...

This angle isn't too bad, although it IS a generously sized doorway...

This show illustrates how the 6mm fits well with the roads, but poorly with the buildings....

Verdict
Ultimately it's up to you. Whilst the roads are a good fit, the base tiles are the worst part of the DzC cardboard set.  I personally am not a fan of having huge doorways you could drive a tank through, and it's not like there isn't a plethora of affordable 6mm terrain options.  A while back I bought (and reviewed) some 6mm terrain from Brigade Model: buildings were only $1.50-$2 each. 
To be honest, 6mm is the one scale I could never be bothered scratch-building terrain for as it's so cheap and easy....

While you COULD certainly use it for 6mm if you weren't fussy - why bother? It's not like 6mm terrain costs that much anyway....

By Dagger or Talon Review (Tomorrow's War Supplement)

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"Deadly Aliens and Enhanced Special Forces" said the blurb. Since differentiating between humans and aliens was one of the weaker points of Tomorrow's War, one of my all-time favourite rulesets, this seemed a no-brainer purchase.

I like the new layout a lot more than that of it's predecessor, Tomorrow's War
The Shiny
Well I am only operating off the pdf, but I am presuming my book will be hardcopy, similar to Tomorrow's War(I think I read somewhere it will be a different size i.e. A4 vs B4 or something). At $30, add on $23 postage (!) and the supplement is an eye-watering $53. That is a LOT for a rulebook (probably the 2nd most expensive in my collection), let alone a supplement. The first 13 pages are fluff about the "Tomorrowverse", a near-future hard sci fi setting that the authors are happy for you to use or avoid as it suits you - sort of a generic toolbox of ideas.  The dark green pagebackground from Tomorrow's War have thankfully been removed and By Dagger or Talon is much easier to read and use than its predecessor. It has a solid table of contents and the pdf I used was bookmarked to make it pleasantly easy to find things. 

"Making Alien Races" & Special Forces
This was the bit that excited me most as I felt that the use of aliens was the weakest link in Tomorrow's War.  It's inherent in the game design -  there is a single stat "Troop Quality" which is either d6 (conscript) d8 (trained), d10 (elite) and d12 (superhumanly heroic).  Each mini gets a dice to attack or defend with - heavy weapons add extra dice on attack, and armour adds extra dice to defensive rolls. Not a lot of differentiation, but at least it's super simple, right?  Well no. Troops can also differ in Morale, Confidence (sounds similar to Morale, right?), Supply (lots of ammo to burn or not), Armour and Tech Level as well as weapons and equipment - so they DO have a "stat line" almost as complex as say GW's LOTR (Shooting Skill, Melee Skill, Strength, Defence, Attacks, Wounds, Morale) whilst being less "descriptive" and thus By Dagger & Talon requires more rules to learn.

While Tomorrow's War works fine for vanilla humans, it does not differentiate between alien forces particularly well and By Dagger & Talon adds more "Special Rules" to make them "alien-er."  This part of the book lists some questions to ask yourself as you make up an alien race. There is an example of race design, but really this is more a bunch of generalisations than a "character creator."

Special forces humans include the nanite enhanced, synthetics, cyborgs, genetically modified - there are recommended special rules for each of them.  There are force lists for GZG Crusties and the new "enemy" race, the horned Darghau. GZG are making an "official" line of Tomorrow's War minis and there is also stats and sample unit lists and weapons for the US Army, Republic of Arden, the DRP, and the Foreign Legion - all of which are available as GZG minis. 

As usual, the lack of a "points system" is a glaring omission. I know the zillion arguments for and against, but it helps balance pick-up games better than blind guesswork, and if you don't like em, don't use em. (I know there was an attempt to make a basic points system on the forum but it withered on the vine.)


Khurasan Felids deploy from an APC in a game of Tomorrow's War
Special Rules
There are about 43 new "special rules" to make your aliens and special forces "special" and to add a modicum of difference between your d8 average human marine and your d8 ravening space ooze fiend from Uranus. So yes, we do get ways to better tell aliens apart from "humies" - but that's 43 new special rules to remember. 

Perhaps I'm a little jaded - in the dozens of games I trial each year, I notice current game design tends towards super simple stats (maybe only one, like in Tomorrow's War) and a zillion exceptions to the rules, in the mistaken belief this is simpler overall. No, actually having to learn dozens and dozens of extra rules does NOT make the game simpler. 

Some of these are quite interesting and add quite a bit of flavour - beserkers, teleportation, burst movement and psionics add quite a bit to the overall game toolbox.

Scenarios
These are pretty good, but also kinda hard to translate to "different" forces as there is no points system. I.e. the scenario might be perfectly balanced for the precise forces and weapons given, but I'd have preferred points lists and generic scenarios, perhaps with random secondary objectives or secret side missions.  The sort of thing is done well by Malifaux, Muskets and Tomahawks, and Dropzone Commander which are streets ahead of By Claw and Talon, especially in terms of replayability and generating interesting random scenarios.The scenarios might be awesome to play, but they're kinda prescriptive.  I'd label them more a interesting source of inspiration than anything else.

Finally there is a list of miniatures suppliers. I find it interesting that although GZG is the "official" supplier many other 15mm companies are listed, such as Critical Mass, Khurasan, and Brigade.  How different from GW's practices!  I can recommend them all - I haven't had one bad expererience and they all had prompt delivery and superb customer service.

TL:DR
A dozen pages of fluff, some generalisations about race creation, 43 new "special rules" to customize your aliens and human forces (some quite interesting), and 9 rather specific scenarios.

Recommended?  Maybe if you live in the US where postage is reasonable.  If you are a "Rest of the World" purchaser I'd give this a miss or grab the pdf if you're super keen. For me, it simply does not have enough content to warrant the price tag. If it was a $20 softcover or a $10 pdf, great, but as it stands I'm not overwhelmed by the "content for money" factor. Tomorrow's War is an excellent game, and I highly, highly recommend it - but for me (perhaps with overly high expectations) By Dagger & Talon was somewhat disappointing. 

Note: Before AAG fanboys send in angry comments, be it known I'm a big Ambush Alley fan - Force on Force and Tomorrow's War are some of my favourite games and I admire the success story of the family-style business and the way they conduct themselves and operate. If you buy the book, it's going to a very worthy business. However, just like Infinity's Paradiso supplement this one, for me, falls a little short.

In Her Majesty's Name - 28mm VSF/Steampunk Skirmish Rules Review

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Steampunk and Victorian SF/horror has been on the rise lately:  I've reviewed Empire of the Dead, Chaos in Cairo/Carpathia, Strange Aeons, Rippers: The Horror Wars, and the weird wild west Deadlands.  Since IHMN has its own integral miniatures series, I am going to primarily contrast it with Empire of the Dead - the most "high profile" of the steampunk games which also has a miniature line from West Wind.  

A slim book, with rather dated layout, iHMN is packed full of more content than larger, more polished hardback rivals
 The Shiny
IHMN is put out by Osprey and is similar to the thin softcover "Men at Arms" series, at a slim 65 pages.  With colour pictures  and art throughout, it has good production values.  At only $11 it is cheaper than most pdf rulesets.  I do like pictures of miniatures in game and the rulebook is quite inspiring.

I did not like the internal layout and text style - it uses the rule 3.1, rule 3.2, rule 3.2b 1990s style rules format and a small font.  More subheadings, use of bold or coloured print and coloured captions for rules would have been good.  Considering the huge page margins a larger font could have been used. I found myself re-reading a page several times to find key information which is never a good sign. It did have a good table of contents and quick reference sheet so a tick there.  Considering the price, it is excellent value for money as it is very "complete."
Face Off: EotD is better laid out and is much easier to read and use, and as a large hardback is far more "shiny." However iHMN is simply much, much better value for money ($11 vs $45). You can buy a complete warband for the price difference in the rules. Winner: iHMN


The servants of Ra - definitely a nod to "The Mummy" - available from Northstar
Fluff
Unlike EotD, IHMN is notably free of the vampires or werewolves and seems less "gothic/occult" in tone.  It does have mad scientists, undead Prussian soldiers, yetis. magic rules and a warband to play the Mummy, but it seems aimed at more "VSF" than "horror." I suspect the omission of vampires et al has been done deliberately, but avoiding them completely seems silly - "Dracula" is a Victorian classic.
Faceoff: iHMN has far more options, but seems to deliberately handicap itself by avoiding legitimate "Victorian" monsters like vampires and werewolves.Tie.

The Stats
 iHMN trims the "stat line" to 4 areas:
PLUCK - an interesting mix of guts and toughness, used to resist hits and take morale tests

SHOOTING VALUE - bonus to shooting rolls
FIGHTING VALUE - bonus in close combat
SPEED -
bonus to "normal" 6" move, modifies some attack rolls

Also relevant is:
ARMOUR - used to block hits

MYSTICAL POWERS - i.e. magic & mad science - only a few factions and characters have this

TALENTS - or "special abilities"

Scotland Yard Company. While I think of it, here is iHMN's official blog link

GAME SEQUENCE
I found this rather interesting. Each player alternates moving one model each, then each player alternates shooting with one model each, and each player alternates fighting melee with one model each.  I'm used to "alternate moves" but usually each model moves, shoots and/or fights before moving to the next model. This breaks the turn up even further.  It's simple but ensures there is very little "down time" for each player.

Mechanics
Each model can move 6" + their speed bonus.  A running model can add 3" but forgoes any shooting. Generally pretty standard.

When shooting, the firer adds his "Shooting Value" + d10 + any weapon bonuses, and tries to beat the target's "Armour" rating.  If the target is hit is must make a "Pluck" roll or it is out of the game. There are modifiers if a firer moved or not, or if the target ran. Tracking this is a bit of a pain and using markers clutters the board a bit.  Rapid fire weapons and flamethrowers for example, can engage multiple targets.  Groups of models may "volley fire" - they can only inflict one hit but they can get a bonus to defeat a heavily armoured target or one in heavy cover. 

Fighting works much the same way, except the target can use his Speed bonus against the attack. Players with a high Fight Value can split the bonus between multiple foes.  When you outnumber a foe you can choose to "Mob" him - similar to volley firing, there is a bonus against the armour, but only one hit can be scored.

Pluck rolls are used if a model takes a hit, or if faced with a morale test (fighting a terrifying foe, for example) - and the Pluck rating must be beaten on a d10.  Many weapons modify the Pluck rating - two-handed sword would be -2, for example. If the roll is under the Pluck rating, it is out of the game. If it is equal to the Pluck rating, it is Knocked Down, cannot act again, and suffers significant penalties. Medics can revive fallen models and help Knocked Down ones recover.
Face Off: iHMN takes "alternate activation" a step further. EoTD is stuck with IGOUGO and is basically GW's-LOTR-with-d10s. Keeping track of movement is a bit annoying in IHMN, though.  Winner: iHMN
I thought the absence of werewolves and vampires was a deliberate avoidance of monsters/occult... until I saw the Black Dragon Tong's yeti... 
Weapons & Gear
The "armour" of a model can range from none, to lined coats, brigandines, steel breastplates etc - or even repulsion fields or anti-electric suits.The armour rating is the score "target number"to beat when rolling  hits with shooting or melee.

iHMN has wide range of (41) weapons, ranging from bullwhips to sabres, revolvers to Nemo-style electric rifles, as well as weird science such as the revivivfiers and electric burst generators.  In addition, iHMN has vehicles such as walkers, rocket cycles, ape howdahs, ornithopters

iHMN has 25 special abilities or "Talents" characters can possess, and although less "occult" than EotD, it has more "magic" or "science" powers (18) ranging from "clouding mens' minds" to levitation and throwing fireballs - as well as having a system to create and point up your own special powers. 
Face Off:  iHMN has double the weapon, equipment, and special ability options. That said,  EoTD's more prescriptive approach would make competitions more balanced and be less open to abuse than iHMN - but 40K-style min-maxers seem pretty rare in VSF.  The addition of vehicles tips the balance firmly to iHMN. Winner: iHMN
      

There the AAR's on"Matt's Gaming Page" has fantastic terrain.

Companies
iHMN has 6 distinct human factions, ranging from Scotland yard to a British rifle company, as well as the Tong, Mummies, cowboys, the USMC and  Foreign Legion, and anarchists. Again, the absence of Victorian horror staples such as vampires and werewolves is notable.


Where EotD has tables for casualties, advancement, recruitment etc iHMN simply uses VP's earned in scenarios as universal currency for buying new recruits or "leveling up" others.  They both work in similar fashion.

Face Off: iHMN has far more variety thanEoTD, which only has only werewolf, vampire, inquisitor, and 4 almost identical human factions.  Most importantly, iHMN allows you to create and stat-up individual random models while EotD only fits to a template. Winner: iHMN

There seems to be a sequel in the works which includes Vatican monster hunters, darkest African, Russian spies and Asian secret societies. Sounds good - and if it's also $11, a no-brainer purchase...
 
Scenarios
There are standard scenarios: Retrieve a a VIP, "breakthrough" to the opposite end of the board, assasinate enemy leader, discover secret documents/relics, hold the fort, escape, king of the hill, catch the pigeon, and destroy the escaped mutant.  These can have "complications" added such as fog, minefields, night falling, local police arresting, earthquakes, etc.  There also is a wide range of locations ranging from London back alleys to the Orient Express.
Faceoff: iHMN offers more options, but EotD lays out their 5 basic scenarios more clearly.  Tie.

TL:DR - The Matchup
Despite being a much smaller, cheaper production, iHMN edges its more polished rival, by having an more involved turn sequence offering more involvement than vs a rather staid IGOUGO.  EotD is pretty much a d10 version of GW's LOTR or "Legends of the Old West" which is a plus or minus depending on how you look at it.  Further, the wider range of warbands and equipment (and the ability to "stat up" random models from scratch) means iHMN offers more flexibility.

Recommended? Yes.  A more flexible, involving game than it's major rival, iHMN is a steal at $11.
It's my "new best" VSF skirmish ruleset.

Antenociti's Workshop Resin 15mm Vehicles G.O.T.

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Frustrated by a painting malaise at 28mm level (both my vikings and FIW), I decided to get cracking with some 15mm - a scale I am always guaranteed to paint.A long browse through GZG's website showed me nothing that really "grabbed" me but I remembered being struck by some of the Antenociti's Workshop G.O.T. range a few months back, that had been released in 15mm.  A few clicks later and a parcel was winging its way to the Antipodes.

Price & Customer Service
Using GZG's metal range as a "benchmark", an APC should be around $13-15 for scout vehicles and APCs.  The resin AW stuff weighed in at $11.50 for APCs and only $7 for the admittedly smaller scout cars.  So overall, I saved around $16 buying the resin models from AW instead of GZG.

Delivery was prompt. I ordered simultaneously from AW, GZG, Critical Mass Games, Rebel and Khurasan - all famously quick to pack and send minis - and the AW currently has a 3-day advantage over the other companies, so you can mark me down as impressed. 

Initially I liked the "not-Stryker" Karbadin APCs best

However I fell in love with the "posability" of the separate tyres from the "Hunchback" APC models.

I do really like the "posability" of separate tyres, allowing the vehicles to look like they are turning, or traversing uneven terrain.  However I am rather dubious about the long-term feasibility having resin wheels glued to rather long thin resin axles.

The total force set me back $60. I'd like to have bought at least an extra APC of each type which would allow me to fully mechanize two platoons.

Casting Quality & Detail
The details are good.  There were a few mold chunks of resin but all were on the underside of the hull and quickly scraped off with a hobby knife. Annoying, but certainly not a major issue.

Details are good, and are better than the GZG metal vehicles that make up the bulk of my 15mm armour.  The AW wheels LOOK like wheels. Not LEGO wheels or some weird liquorice.

Here is a AW APC compared to the nicest GZG wheeled vehicles. Most GZG stuff has a much more exaggerated look.
Scale
Often the small scout vehicles/jeeps in 15mm look  like they wouldn't fit a single guy inside, let alone 4 or so.  How does the AW stuff shape up?


It's not a HMMVW, that's for sure. Probably only a 2-man crew by the looks of it.  

The Striker-like APC could fit 8 guys, with a bit of imagination and some Vaseline....

TL:DR
Quick delivery, solid pricing, good detail (some of the better 15mm vehicles I own, although I do like the GZG hovercraft series), nice design.

Recommended? Yes.  I'm making up another order in the next few days for some reinforcements and a few of their other designs.

Cheap & Nasty Scratchbuilt Terrain - 30 minute Building

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In blog of modellers whenever they make terrain they seem to do amazing masterworks, beautiful diorama tables that look like they took $500 of gear, and a small team of experts 500 hours to make.

Then there are the rest of us. I personally find terrain secondary to collecting, painting and playing with models. For me, making terrain is like saying the people who built the stadium are more interesting than the footballers playing inside it.  But I don't like playing on a potato paddock so we SHOULD at least mark the field and put up goals, so to speak.

Personally, I simply care if my terrain is unified - not the usual gothic 40k ruins, paper terrain and some random rocks on the same board.  It's like painting models - it doesn't have to look good, but it should look like you made an effort.  

So - could I make a quick "free" building in 30 minutes? I looked around and spotted a bunch of drawers I was about to throw out as some of the internal shelves were missing.

It reminded me of some unfinished apartment buildings that seem prolific to Istanbul.

They seem to dot the landscape - only the concrete "skeleton" is in place. 

Armed with some foamboard, which I had leftover from my "Infinity terrain" project, I quickly set to work.

I would replace the "shelves" with "stories" made of foamboard. I could slip them in and out just like the drawers, making it easy to place troops on different levels.  I wasn't even sure the scale - I popped some 15mm and 28mm and I decided the 15mm was more "to scale."

15mm seems more in scale for an apartment building.

I measured the original plastic shelf bases and cut foamboard to suit. A blunt knife and impatience means I butchered the job a bit, but we're trying for a 30 minute deadline here...
Sadly only AFTER I had cut, did I realize that the end-walls protruded 1cm, as I didn't take into account the .5cm thickness of the foam-board itself.
...so I had to pull things apart and re-cut them down to size.
I use pins to "pin" things into place. You can PVA glue them later but this is a rush job.
I gave it a quick squirt of grey paint before the glue had even dried.
Some GZG UNSC use the building in a game later that night.

Summary:
Is it rough? Yeah.  Am I proud of it? No. Could I do better next time? Sure. 

I'm confident I can make the second building in 15 minutes.   I was a bit unhappy with the building - the 5mm foamboard is too "thick" and "rough" for 15mm.  Plasticard would of course be better but (a) it's much more expensive and (b) I don't have any handy. You could easily do a much, much neater job with more patience and sharper knife, though.

I'm going to finish it with glass windows made of the plastic off old model boxes but I was up to my 30 minute limit so that's how it will stay for the moment. My aim: if I spend only 30 minutes per weekend, in 4-5 weeks I'll have a respectable 15mm facility/outpost. 

This isn't about my awesome terrain-building skills *cough*, but rather giving an example of how you can make rough but "acceptable" terrain rather quickly and easily, with limited time and budget.  There's plenty off stuff lying around at home that might look good on the game table with a quick spraypaint*.....

Next weekend, a new building....

(*Actually, just realised as I typed this that the "oil pipleine" in the background of the last pic is simply a piece of PVC pipe with a coat of silver spraypaint)

Cheap & Nasty Scratchbuilt Terrain: Packaging = Aeronef Hangar/Bunker

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Many people say terrain building guides are inspirational. They aren't actually. They're more aspirational. They are usually so amazingly professional and detailed, I go "I wish I was that good" or "I wish I had that much spare time" and don't even attempt it.

My goal here is to make stuff people go "heck, I could easily do better than that dude!" or "I could do x instead."  As usual, the aim is to spend 30 minutes or less on the building or terrain piece, from start to finish.

Packaging
I bought some plastic aquarium plants for my new sub game (more on that later) and as I was about to throw out the packaging I thought... I wonder if I could make something out of it?  The molded plastic that packages everyday items comes in some weird and wonderful shapes.  

This package looked a bit bunker-like. I tossed up whether to build a 15mm sci fi bunker to go with my existing scratch built 15mm stuff but I have been busy painting my aeronef fleets today and I'd like some accompanying terrain.  Inspired by the U-boat pens, I decided to build an "aeronef base."

This was my inspiration.

This was what I had to work with. Besides the packaging (free) I used a pre-cut piece of MDF from Bunnings which cost me $1. I also grabbed some packets of pre-cut balsa wood from their craft aisle which also cost about $1.  Total cost - $2.

Spray Paint - A Scatch-Builder's Friend
When scratch building, can I underline the importance of paint?  A coat of paint can transform random objects into an interesting piece of wargaming terrain. In fact I'd say the ability to look at an unpainted object and go "ah, this could be x with a coat of paint" is THE key skill in scratch building.  You can lovingly handpaint stuff, of course, for some lovely effects - or, like me, you can casually spray the terrain with $2 cans, and cut your terrain-building time to minutes, instead of hours.  

From A to Z
It's probably obvious from the finished photos, but here's what I did
1. Sprayed the plastic packaging grey
2. Cut out doors and roof hatches
3. Glued the cardboard backing to the doors and roof hatches and painted them silver
4. Sprayed the MDF base blue and added some "waves" as the water looked a bit bland
5. Made a cardboard "dock" and sprayed it grey
6. Glued everything into place
7. Brushed PVA glue around the sides, and sprinkled beach sand on top (sieved with my wife's flour sieve to remove impurities...)
8. Sprayed some balsa pieces brown and glued them to the dock as buildings. Pro tip: The spray will blow small balsa pieces everywhere (*cough* of course I didn't do this) unless you blu tac them down.




This is the completed aeronef pen.  I kinda envision aeronefs needing to land on water as they have boat shaped hulls, and I'm sure a water landing would place less stress on the hull.


The balsa wood "buildings" look OK from a distance and make the building less bland.  You can see the glue hasn't dried - I tend to cut corners and work with things not fully dried in order to finish under my self-imposed time limit.

A aeronef frigate coming in to land in the outside dock.  I'm going to do a raid on the nef base rather like the WW1 raid on the Cuxhaven zepplin sheds.

As usual, it took 30 minutes, from concept to full completion.  Yes, it is pretty rough. Yes, I didn't even use a ruler.  But I'm adhering to my 30 minute deadline pretty strictly (I actually made this while waiting for the glue on another project to dry).

The packaging would also make a decent 15mm bunker as well and I'm tempted to do it with my other packet.  Anyway, I hope I've inspired someone to look at packaging in a new way.

...rips open parcel - throws away miniatures - excitedly takes packaging off to the workbench...

Cheap & Nasty Scratchbuilt Terrain: Spraycan Lids = Undersea Base

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I need some undersea terrain for the home-brew sub rules I am tinkering with.

I decided on some undersea bases and a kelp forest, with undersea mountains to come later once I decide how I want them to work in-game.

Spray can lids and plastic aquarium plants - we're set!

I wanted some cylinders or domes as they seem undersea-y shapes, and I noticed the top of my spray cans fit the bill.  A quick hunt round the shed revealed some silver-painted film canisters which were already doing duty as sci fi steel drums, as well as some other silver-painted cylindrical containers from the craft shop I stole liberated from my wife to turn into nuclear waste tanks.

A visit to the kitchen yielded some straws - I mean, transit tubes, to connect the undersea habitats.  A note on straws - not only are the bendy ones good for bending, as the name suggests, but if you are a bit casual with measuring, they can be extended or contracted to fit.  See how the red straw has been extended to be longer than the green straw.

I already had some aquarium plants - but my wife had taken them to use in the actual AQUARIUM - how ridiculous.  So I had to go buy some more and at $3 for 3 they were my most expensive purchase.

Again, it's probably obvious from the photos what I did, but here's the breakdown:

1. Superglue spraycan lids to pre-cut MDF boards ($1.50 large, 70c small)
2. Attach film cannisters and connect drinking straws with a dab of superglue
3. Cut cheap cardboard jewel box (50c) and attach film cannister

To fit things snugly to curved surfaces, trace the curved shape onto the object before cutting...

4. Brush PVA glue onto the bases and then sprinkle with sand
5. Remove excess sand off thoroughly!  I.e. bang the whole MDF board down hard, blow off loose sand, etc. Or you could regret it....
6. Undercoat everything with black spraypaint
7. Spraypaint the base itself with grey primer
8. Unfortunately we need to use a brush here. ..mutter mutter...  Generously dab on some el cheapo black craft glue to cover the grey overspray that went on the base

Disaster
After about #7, I banged the model down hard. This loosened some excess sand I hadn't cleaned off thoroughly before at #5, which promptly flew in the air and stuck to the wet paint on the outside of the buildings. My initial attempts to fix this simply made it worse, turning the base into a paint-and-sand sludge which went everywhere. I had to scrape back lots of sand and repaint the base black again. This took 30 minutes and put me waaay over my time limit.

The aquarium plants are simply rebased onto pre-cut MDF, with a black-painted sand base

Aren't they EM4 spacefighters, you ask? Actually, no, they are supercavitating fighter submarines that "fly" underwater at 200kts+ using rocket engines...

You can see the sand that flicked up all over the buildings from the "disaster" moment....

If it wasn't for the "disaster" moment this would all have been completed in under 45 minutes like I was aiming for. I went for black bases as I presume it will be rather dark at the bottom of the ocean. 

 The buildings could do with more detail - perhaps add portholes and make the connecting tubes a different colour.

I'm reasonably satisfied with the end result although I could add lots more detail.  Portholes on the buildings and rocks on the base would be simple and quick additions.  Total cost was $6 - $3 for the plastic plants, and $3 for all the pre-cut MDF bases. Due to the issues with the loose sand on base, I blew out my time limit by 30 minutes, almost double the 45 minutes I allowed myself.  

Next visit to the hardware store, I'll get some small polyurethane piping (the sort they use for pop-up sprinkler systems) and make myself an undersea oil pipeline for the subs to attack or defend. 
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